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Hawaii Surfing

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Surfing is uniquely Hawaiian dating back to the late 1700's when native Hawaiians were seen riding a wood plank on the swells of Kealakekua Bay on Hawaii Island. It probably got its start long ago in ancient Polynesia, later thriving in Hawaii. It was once a sport only reserved for Hawaiian royalty, which is why surfing is often called the “sport of kings.” With the end of the Hawaiian taboo system in 1819, commoners were allowed to freely participate in the sport.

In the early 1900’s, surfing was revitalized on Waikiki Beach. The name Duke Kahanamoku is synonymous with surfing. Duke later became a multiple gold-medal winner at the Olympics as a swimmer. Later in life he was known as the “father of modern surfing,” spreading the popularity of the sport to the mainland U.S. and Australia. Today, a bronze statue of Duke welcomes visitors to Waikiki where first-time surfers are still learning to catch their first waves today.

Hawaii is also the birthplace of big wave surfing. In the 1950’s surfers began to ride the powerful winter waves of Makaha on Oahu's west shore and Waimea Bay on the North Shore. Big wave season in Hawaii happens roughly between November and February on Hawaii’s north shores. Some of the best surfing competitions in the world are held on Oahu’s North Shore in November and December including the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the Super Bowl of surfing.

A popular activity for tourist is to take a surfing lesson, simply for the fun of it. Waikiki Beach is still one of the best spots in Hawaii to get on your feet and ride your first wave but lessons are available on almost every island. Budget 1-2 hours for the lesson with an experienced surfer in gentle breaks. Long boards are used to make it even easier for first-timers and a push from your instructor will help you get started.

Stand-up paddle boarding is a variation on surfing that is becoming very popular in the islands. In stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) riders stand upright on wider, longer boards and use a paddle to maneuver. Great for a core muscle workout, SUP is often used for fitness rather than for riding waves.

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